March 18th to 20th 2015
We Arrive in Puerto Varas somewhat exhausted, though I can’t say why. the bus journey from Ancud to Puerto Montt is only a couple of hours, where we stop for Russell, Clara and my dad to book their bus tickets north well in advance (In chile unlike the north of South America it saves you a lot of money.) Tickets purchased, we hop on one of the small blue buses leaving from the Puerto Montt terminal bound for the centre of Puerto Varas. They leave every 5 or 10 minutes up until about 10 pm and cost between 800-900 Pesos. Maybe 35 minutes later we’re climbing out near the main square of Puerto Varas and heading towards Ellenhaus where Mirta from Hospedaje Austral back in Chiloe has reserved us a 4 person room for 31,000 CLP (62 CAD). Quite a bargain. The reason? We’ve rolled past march 15th when most locations in southern Chile switch to their low season rates. Ellenhaus works out quite nicely, bigger than most hostels and more hotel style but comfy and with a great kitchen. It’s one of two good options to stay at in Puerto Varas, the other being Margouya Hostel 2 which has the edge for dorms.
We settle into the room and decide to go for a short walk through town before dinner time. We’re here to visit Vicente Perez Morales National park but as we step outside into this charming little town by the lake we realize it in itself is something of a destination.
We wander down a few blocks of decidedly german architecture and even products before getting a partial view of Lago LLanquihue and marvelling at some mountains on the other side, the tops dusted with snow as my father’s beard was once dusted with grey.
I haven’t done much research on Puerto Varas So I am stunned when I reach the end of the street and see Volcano Osorno across the lake, dominating the blue sky. This is coloured more like my father’s beard would be now, if he grew it back, a huge section of the solitary volcano covered in glistening snow and ice, setting off the blue of the lake and sky rather perfectly.
On the blue of the lake are a collection of small sailing catamarans, most captained by a sole teenager, though this kids clearly know what their doing, expertly catching the unpredictable gusts of winds and directing their vessels seamlessly through the sapphire blue water, the volcano all the while in the backdrop.
One kid, perhaps not quite as expert as the others, manages to flip his boat and plunges into the cold water, working at restoring his vessel to the upright position before several minutes before managing it.
After relaxing for a good long while we head out for a walk along the lake shore towards a better viewpoint of the volcano complete with a statue which was both unique and beautiful.
Then it’s back into town to look for dinner. This is one downside of Puerto Varas, eating out is expensive and I end up opting for homemade sandwiches later while the others eat at a restaurant which, at least value wise, I wouldn’t recommend.
We head to bed and wake up early to catch the first bus out towards Saltos de Petrohue, our first stop in the national park. The buses leave from the corner of Walker Matrinez and San Bernardo streets roughly every 40 minutes from 8 until 6 or a bit later, and they continue throughout the entire year according to the bus drivers and counter all internet intelligence I could gather. It’ costs 2000 CLP (4 CAD) To Saltos de Petrohue (1hr) or 2500 CLP (5 CAD) to Lago Todo Los Santos (1.5 hrs) a little further along.
As we ride around Lago LLanquihue we get closer and closer to the volcano, though sadly the sky is not properly cooperating and we get only brief glimpses of the snow capped volcano.
Our driver kindly tells us when to get off and we pay the fare as we climb down and head through a small shopping complex and back into nature. A few minutes walk back from the road we pay the 1500 CLP (3 CAD) entrance fee and hold onto our tickets in case we choose to come back.
While Clara ducks into the free washrooms (something they brag about with a huge sign) a fox steps out on the trail and we all grin. The foxes here are not exactly wild, but not domestic either, a nice mix which lets us get some nice pictures and views of the beautiful but timid creatures without feeling like a zoo.
Then it’s another 5 minute walk out to the boardwalks around these truly stunning waterfalls.
Frustratingly, the area is heavily touristed by cruise ships docking in Puerto Montt, and so it’s often crowded and very well regulated. That’s why getting the first bus was so key. We head out onto the fenced in boardwalks and are thrilled to be alone there, marvelling at the aquamarine colours of the water cascading down from Lago Todos Los Santos and rushing through the incredible landscape.
On one side massive cliffs loom over the water shielding us from the still rising son, on the other the Volcano peaks through thick grey cloud. All with the soundtrack of crashing water playing behind it. I can’t help but think just how majestic this place would be with unblemished blue sky.
Russell and I are perhaps bad influences on each other, as we decide the fences are a little ridiculous and hop over them, Russell more nimbly than myself, though we both manage it. Then we dash across water smoothed rocks closer to the main falls. As we go, the skies clear just a little bit and we snap photos of each other with the snow capped fire mountain in the background.
Knowing Dad will be getting anxious, and knowing we’re in deep trouble if I ranger should wander out into the boardwalks, we hurry back, climb back over the fence and enjoy the view from the tourist approved angles. Then we head back and take a walk on one of a few short trails to be found here.
The small loop takes us past a tiny mirror like green lagoon, then back to the river, which has picked up pace again and is now a huge section of significant rapids. I worry my father further by wading out into them, going as far as I dare in the icy cold water and posing for a few pictures that we’re certainly not meant to look so sexual.
We then head back towards the falls and break the rules a little sliding down a side path onto the stone covered river bank and get some better views of the falls. Sadly the clouds still dominate the sky and while it’s incredible, the sense of potential for more is palpable. No one yells at us and I wade in the water briefly before we head back to the main road and flag down a bus bound for Petrohue and Lago Todo Los Santos, our next stop.
The stunning lake which feeds the Petrohue river is wreathed in mountains and thin misty clouds. The volcano which lies directly beside us is all but invisible but the mountains across the lake loom in the distance, mysterious and almost ominous. hauntingly beautiful.
As we climb off the bus we are quickly offered a boat ride, 45 minutes around the lake for 3000 CLP per person. We can’t turn it down and head out onto the lake for some truly incredible views.
We pass a small floating house and wind our way back towards the entirely hidden volcano and one more time I find myself wishing for that blue sky. We finish the magnificent boat ride and then head back to Puerto Varas.
I’ve offered to cook dinner, something I’m looking forward to despite the fatigue of a full day. While travelling alone I rarely cook a proper meal outside of simple lunches. For one person it’s a lot of work for little reward. the last time it happened would be Canadian thanksgiving back in Colombia at hostel El Encuentro, now closed, when I made a pancake breakfast. I end up attempting butter chicken without the proper spices and it comes out well enough that I make the same thing the next day.
Speaking of the next day, we wake up in the morning and decide we can’t imagine a better day then yesterday, so we repeat it, and this time the sky cooperates, yielding a stunning blue. Let’s just say this, it’s amazing the difference the sun can make. Even more than I’d ever imagined.
We climb back on that first bus to Saltos de Petrohue, again beating the cruise ship crowd. This time Clara hops the fence with us and we marvel at Osorno’s powerful majesty enshrouded by clouds as we climb down close to the cascades. Again our timing is perfect as we hurry back, leaping over the fences just a minute before more people walk out onto the boardwalks.
Once back where we’re allowed to be we take a few more photos with my dad.
We walk the same short trail through nature again, enjoying the rapids before Russell and I decide to climb up some small cliffs and go searching for a bit of adventure, winding through the dense forest on the scarce remains of an old ranger trail or game trail, trying to get back to the river. We stumble out to some small cliffs and Russell has to fight every wish in his mind not to jump into the river. The water below is crystal clear and surprisingly deep, but the problem is there’s no easy way back up. And Clara and Dad are back waiting for us, so instead we hurry back only to find we’ve missed more Foxes while we’re gone. Oh well, they’ll be more.
We rejoin them and head back along the trail, once more ducking down onto the rocky river bank, Robert accompanying us this time as we hurry down for what is up there with my favourite views of the last 18 months of travel. Just wow. Cloudless skies make all the difference.
I want to cross the river swimming and get closer to the falls but Russell decides against it, so we just go for a quick swim in the icy currents before someone points us out to some of the Park Rangers and we are promptly told to return to the path. I put some clothes back on and head back to the trail quickly, feeling a little bad. The fact that the rangers are all just smiling and chuckling at the crazy gringoes makes me feel better though, they don’t seem upset in any way.
The sky still a brilliant blue hue as we leave so we decide to take a little walk up the road before cutting through a narrow and private trail to get back to the river maybe a kilometre upstream from the falls themselves. There we walk along the rocks of all different shapes in sizes, river to our right, volcano to our left, and mountains behind and ahead. It’s pretty amazing, and the cold water is terrifically refreshing under the early afternoon sun.
We head back to the road eventually through a different trail and hail the next bus that passes retreading the steps of the day before under luminous skies. We climb out of the bus and elect to take another boat ride, feeling energized by the incredible colour of the lake under the sun and the massive volcano, it’s slopes beginning just beside us.
The boat this time is less spacious and less suited to pictures, but we still manage some and the captain is very nice. 45 minutes later we dock back in the tiny little settlement of Petrohue, a hotel a few tourist stores, a restaurant, and a national parks office.
We decide were not quite done with this wondrous area and Russell, Clara, and I head down to one of the long beaches while my father does something he truly hates; shopping. The water is frigid but both Russell and I can’t help but go in. Russell darts in and out quickly, I let the water wash over me as I dunk myself under, planning to do the same thing. But as the water’s cleansing embrace envelops me I can’t bring my shivering soul to hurry out and spend the next ten minutes swimming in this lake of pure perfection, spinning around and staring at the incredible mountains in just about every direction. I get dizzy from spinning too fast to take it all in and feel utterly entranced by this dream like spot. Never wanting to leave.
But all good things must come to an end so we head back and meet my Dad whose grabbed a few souvenirs before climbing into the bus and meeting the bus drivers 8 year old son who is perhaps the most confident talkative child I’ve seen. He talks in a non stop stream of words, probing us with questions and answering ours, making the 45 minute ride back to Laguna Verde (our final stop for the day) an enjoyable one. He tells us that there we can find all kinds of Zorros (foxes) which we are allowed to feed.
We climb out of the bus in the small town of Ensanada at a crossroads and take the road which stays close to Lago LLanquihue and walk for maybe 20 minutes before we get to the entrance to laguna verde. On the way I enjoy some of the best blackberries I’ve ever had, plucked from the thorny bushes framing the road. It’s late afternoon so we take the short trail down to the lagoon and find it somewhat underwhelming after the wondrous sites we’ve just seen.
Then we climb back up to the parking lot and smile as two foxes emerge from the woods. Dad luckily has some bread which we feed them peacefully until the cat from hell shows up, scaring the foxes despite being half their size. Theirs a few hints of confrontation before the foxes give up and disappear into the forest again.
We catch one last glimpse of them crossing the road as we walk back to the bus stop, bound for Ellenhaus in Puerto Varas offering stunning volcano views the l way back.
I cook the same butter chicken-esque dish as the night before and we all get very excited for the next day, we have a flight down to the far south in Punta Arenas and Patagonia, reputed to be one of the most stunning places in the entire world. All that and more coming to the blog in the near future. Check back soon!
