February 2nd 2015

I wake up and once again stumble into the pacific Ocean before doing anything else.  People say hello from the breakfast table and I manage a wave and a smile before reaching the beach, moving more quickly now over the warm golden sand, and almost running by the time I feel the waves salty caress around my ankles.  No better way to start the day than playing amongst the towering waves of the ocean on an empty and beautiful beach.  That’s Las Tunas for you, But today I’m headed somewhere different.  Though still beaches.

I walk out of the ocean exhilarated and enjoy a good breakfast included with my stay at Viajamar Surf Hostel before packing a day bag and heading out to the main road to try to find a bus.  I walk up slowly to the center of the little fishing village and already find myself wishing I’d bothered to start earlier than 9 am.  The sun is unforgiving and while I’m sun-screened up and wearing a hat, I can still feel it toasting me.

I buy some water at one of a few tiny local shops before climbing into a collectivo bound for puerto lopez (2$ but you could likely negotiate).  Fast forward 20 minutes and I’m climbing into a tuk tuk (50 Cents) and being brought right back to Asia as we tear through town to the newer bus terminal a couple of kilometers out of the center.   There I find a bus headed north and let the driver know I want to be dropped off at the entrance to Los Frailes a stunning section of Machalilla National Park. About 20 minutes and a dollar later I’m climbing out of the bus with a few other tourists, shading my eyes from the sun.  Occasionally I do wish I didn’t so hate sunglasses.

We cross the busy road and register at the national park office with passport details, but entrance is free. More tuk tuks wait at the entrance offering a ride to the beach itself for 2.50 per tuk tuk.  I’m mildly tempted but fellow travellers have told me the true majesty of this place is the hikes it allows, not just the sparkling white sand crescent beach it’s named for.  I head up the dirt road and after a couple of minutes I see the sign with the map that marks my path.  I veer right for the 2 hour hike in the unshaded and harsh terrain, while some others continue on the main dirt road eager to get to the beach which takes about 30 minutes.  If you can in any way, go right like I did, I promise it’s worth it.  Just be sure to bring all the sun protection you can, and plenty of water and snacks.

I go right and start climbing up a series of small hills surrounded by bizzare looking trees of pure grey without a leaf insight.  Wet season is long overdue here and soon I find myself wishing I would rain.  The hike itself is not all that difficult, the heat however is and you’re lucky to find a moment or two of very partial shade on your way up to the cliffs overlooking the pacific Ocean.

I get to the first outlook and catch up to two friendly Argentinean girls.  We marvel at the incredible vista and the turquoise colouring of the sea I’d never imagined possible of the pacific ocean before arriving in Ecuador.  More than anything though we soak in the refeshing breeze.  It’s much needed and compliments the stunning views quite well.

They continue on and a short while later I follow, glad as the path wind’s down towards the sea and I stumble out onto the first of four beaches I hope to visit on the day, this one an interesting black sand affair.  I’ve forgotten to charge my camera so I shoot a few pictures quickly before turning off the camera, peeling off my clothes and diving into the seaweed filled water.  The Argentineans have decided not to swim, though I’m not sure how, as despite the burnt orange seaweed very reminiscent of Nova Scotia, the water is a much needed refresher.

I climb out quickly and toss my bag back on continuing alone along the trail.  Just a few minutes later I’m drenched in sweat again, but luckily just a few minutes after that, I reach the next beach, with beautiful fluffy white/yellow sand, and waves rolling in from the open ocean.  It’s framed by cliffs on the right and  lovely boulder like island almost connected to the shore by a narrow strip of land running out to it.

Here I again peel off my clothes and dive into the water, being careful of the strong currents which make this beach dangerous and the next one extremely dangerous.  The water here is endlessly clearer and the waves more impressive and fn to play around in.  I linger too long and let other hikers catch up to me, leaving me on the beach with a small handful of people instead of blissfully alone.  As I shoulder my pack and walk over to check out the island up closer I meet a family from Argentina with young kids doing the hike in the opposite way, and they’re kind enough to take a photo of me after I’ve done the same for them. Then it’s on to the third beach.

Here there are signs up warning people not to swim and as I quickly peel off my clothes and ignore the signs I see why.  The current is very strong, the waves big, and the white yellow sands beneath your feet ever shifting.  It’s dangerous and I don’t spend long in the water before climbing out and exploring some of the cliffs and boulders on the left side of the beach.  The stones are covered in crabs who scuttle away as a giant’s shadow falls over them.  I make it out towards a tempting point but after trying and failing to scale a small cliff face I walk away with a twisted ankle and bruised knee, knowing I was likely pretty lucky that I know how to fall effectively.

I limp up off the third beach and back onto a dusty trail through the barren scrub land that stretches back in rolling hills as far as the eye can see.  A few minutes later I reach a choice, turning right will take me back up to the highest cliff yet to a scenic look out, continuing straight will take me straight to the beach, just a few minutes away. Despite my throbbing ankle and sore knee I go right, and it’s hard to regret when you come to the little gazebo sheltered from the sun and directly in the breeze of the Ocean.  The views all around are stunning, to the left is the truly perfect looking beach of Los Frailes, straight ahead is the open ocean and to the right is a stunning angle on my past path.  Truly gorgeous and undoubtedly worth the 10 minutes up and 5 minutes down, especially since there’s plenty of little lookouts on the way up to catch your breath.  The view reminds me of Cabo De La Vela in Colombia.

Either way refreshed by the breeze and shade I head down back to the main path and after convincing a few strangers to make the climb I stumble out onto the perfect white sand of Los Frailes, my final destination.

It’s beautiful and an ideal beach for swimming with gentle rolling waves gliding up onto the clean and soft sand.  The beach continues along way, but I’m running late so after a quick swim i stroll along to the center of the beach and enter the parking lot, enjoying an ice cream and gatorade at a souvenir stand.  It’s just about all there is food wise but it’s enough.

After relaxing in the shade for an extra minute or two I head out onto the road and can’t resist the temptation of a waiting tuk tuk (2.50)  to take me back to the main road, especially since I’m running late to meet some friends.

Back at the main road I wait a few minutes for another bus heading north climbing on and asking to be let off at Puerrto Cayo, where I’m going to visit with Wesley and Laurah, two lovely british travellers I first met back in Salento, Colombia.  Wesley is the first person from Bradford I’ve met on the road this whole time.

It’s one of the things I love most about travellers.  Meeting people.  Locals for sure, but also travellers from all around the world. Friendships made and also people having adventures to draw inspiration from.  For example these two really made me regret missing Cali in Colombia.

At any rate,its great to climb out of a 1 dollar tuk-tuk ride and see Laurah and Wesley, who are doing a few weeks of work away as caretakers on a vacation property in Puerto Cayo, a little town just north of the national park.  We catch up on eachother’s exploits over the past three months before taking a long walk on another beautiful beach oddly peppered with dead puffer fish.  Quite a sight but I forgot to bring my camera.  Though i did manage some shots from the tuk-tuk.

Either way, the sun fades low in the sky so we return to their place and I gather up my stuff and take another tuk-tuk to the main road where I catch a bus all the way back to Las Tunas.  I climb off in the center of town and head down to the beach and Jimmy’s restaurant where I’m lucky enough to take in yet another stunning sun set from the beach and from my table just off it, where I enjoy some delicious sea food as my first real food since breakfast.  Food always tastes better when you’re hungry.

The sun disappears long before I’m finished eating but as I walk back to Hostel Viajamar I am amazed by the brightness of the sky.  The moon is one day short of full and countless stars above me burn bright turning the blackness almost to daylight.  It’s perhaps the brightest night I’ve ever experienced and I end up spending a good while on the beach staring up at the clear sky above the crashing waves of the pacific enjoying the bliss that has been my life this past week on the Ecuadorian coast.

Finally it’s time for a hammock and some reading before heading to bed.  As my eyes flutter open and closed I find myself hating the idea of leaving Ecuador, though I know I am only allowed to stay about another 8 days.  What a country.  If you ever get a chance, come here.  You won’t regret it.